Tenuta il Borro Il Borro IGT 2003
This is 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Syrah. It's lively cherry ruby with bright rim tending towards red almandine ruby. The bouquet is fairly intense, and reveals a certain youth of the vineyards, which are (we were told) about 5 years old; there's fairly rich berry fruit mingled with violets of youth and considerable spice derived from wood; a fellow journalists mentions cloves and cardamom, and he is right, and there is also smoke and hardwood ash. On the palate it's full, with powerful red berry fruit -- primarily black currants, mingled with bell pepper and hints of underbrush; though it is rich, it also has a lightness to it that is again a result of the youth of the vines. The tannins also reflect this youth, with a degree of lightness in the grape component that will fade in future vintages, and a consequent cedary accent that is the wood stepping in (well) to take up the slack; the finish is long, with brandied fruit notes that had been at mid sip emerging. Quite deft, and an impressive result from very young vines; it will work well with succulent red meats.
2 stars
Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 1999
Sangiovese in Purezza, aged in barriques.Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is quite rich, and beginning to enter into maturity, with hints of balsam mingled into red berry fruit and some sea salt, with underlying spice and slight hints of green leather. Nice, and one of those wines you'll find yourself sniffing again and again. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and by tannins that have deft brambly overtones mingled with well integrated oak, and flow into a long clean berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, and will drink very well with grilled meats or stews, including game. It's ready, but will continue to develop for at least five more years. In short, if you have several bottles, set some aside.
Tenuta Setteponti Crognolo 2002 IGT
90% Sangiovese plus other varietals. Dark black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The nose is very different from the first two, with a savory vegetal sharpness mingled with underbrush and some underlying animal tang; there's also some smoke, and hints of fruit. It gives an impression of thinness coupled with lack of ripeness, and of wood stepping in to take the place of fruit, something that would be possible given the rains of the 2002 vintage. On the palate it's fairly light, and quite acidic, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit that has some lemony overtones, and is supported by light slightly splintery tannins that flow into a warm rather bitter acidic finish. It's an aggressive wine, and a child of the vintage, and given its character will drink quite well with fairly fatty cuts of meat, either off the grill or roasted.
1 star
Tenuta Vitereta Villa Bernetti IGT 2001
This is a Cabernet Sauvignon; it's deep pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and distinctly vegetal, with grilled bell peppers mingled with spice, sea salt, and tangy acidity, and supported by underlying black currant fruit and hardwood ash. On the palate it's fairly full, and surprisingly acidic, with sour black currants mingled with slightly green black berries, and greenish tannins that flow into a long vegetal finish with underlying bitterness. It seems unripe, which is a surprise given the richness of most of the wines produced in 2001. It's not off -- no problems per se -- but is simply greener and more acidic than I would have expected. Perhaps very young vines? It will, in any case, drink well with succulent to fatty grilled meats or roasts.
75 (1 star) |
